Morning: Valley of the Kings — arrive before 8 am to beat the tour groups; tickets pre-purchased online save ~20 minutes at the gate. Recommended sequence: KV62 (Tutankhamun), KV11 (Ramesses III), KV17 (Seti I — separate ticket required, worth the premium for the painted ceilings alone).
Midday: Deir el-Bahari, Hatshepsut's temple — 25-minute drive north. No shade after 10 am; bring at least 1.5 litres of water. Crowd peak is 10–12; if you can arrive at 9:30 you get the colonnade largely to yourself.
Lunch: Al-Moudira restaurant, west bank (15-minute taxi, around 40 EGP). Order the kofta with tahini and the lemon chicken. The terrace overlooks sugar cane fields; eat slowly.
Afternoon: Unscheduled. Optional: Luxor Museum (2 hours, uncrowded, exceptionally well-labelled in English — better context for what you've just seen than any guide).
Where you'll stay
Sofitel Winter Palace, Luxor
Colonial-era property directly on the Nile, within walking distance of Luxor Temple. Churchill stayed here; the gardens are worth a slow evening walk. Rates from ~$120/night in spring. Book direct for breakfast inclusion.
